Algae Control
But if you get stuck, you might want to check out barley straw alternatives here.
Uv pond filter system Those with fish ponds and no plants might want to evaluate these systems. These ultraviolet light filters will clear water but also sterilze it so the bio-filters do not work properly.
Bluestone for algae control. Here's the real info on using this material. Hint: don't in the small pond.
Pond Scum is chunks of floating algae and all of the above hold true controlling this ugly stuf
Blanketweed How to identify it - long Angel hair filaments of green algae and this is sometimes called but the control (below) is the same
Beneficial bacteria are important for ponds with fish. Note that excessive fish populations will benefit from bacteria in the sprong.
Q&A: How do I calculate the bluestone dose on my small fountain?
Q&A - Composting string algae is recommended, but how do I do it?
Q&A: I have brown water in my pond, not green. What's wrong with my algae control?
There are three kinds of algae and dealing with it depends on which kind you have.
Floating Algae Control
Causes of Floating Algae that turn your water garden green1) Too many fish or too much food.
The solution is to stop feeding the fish and/or get rid of some fish.
That seemed simple didn't it? :-)
A pond will support 1 inch of fish per square foot of pond surface. e.g. 4X8 foot pond is 32 square feet, therefore you get 32 inches of fish. This is 8 four inch goldfish or 32 one inch goldfish. Big goldfish doing what big goldfish do - you always end up with more fish than your pond can tolerate. I note that I don't feed my fish at all - they get what lands on the pond or what algae they can scrape off. Great colours in the fish and not too many new babies.
2) Not enough oxygenating plants
One bundle of oxygenators per 2 or 3 square feet of open exposed space not covered by plant or lily leaves. You should cover 65-70% of your pond surface with plant leaves. Divide uncovered square footage by 2. Buy that number of oxygenator bundles for effective algae control. In deciding, it is always better to have too many than too few oxygenators. 3) Too much waste on bottom.
Well, the solution to this seems pretty obvious, even to a guy. Remove the water and clean the bottom. The easiest way to do this is to put the pump at the lowest level of the pond, hook up a discharge hose to it and start it running. When the water gets low enough, you can use a pressure nozzle to wash the gunk to the bottom (suspended in the pond water) where the pump will remove it via the hose.
4) Chemical fertilizers in ponds
Why anyone would use a lot of chemical fertilizer in ponds is beyond me anyway. If you use pond tabs, bury the darn things a few inches down in the mud of your plant tubs. Better still, do as I now do and pack compost into the bottom 2-3 inches of your plant pot, then put in the heavy clay soil for your lily, then put in the lily. You won't believe the root growth this will produce. Did someone say "Huge Flowers"?
5) Excessive movement of water.
I know you like moving water and I know the nice salesman said it was ok to have moving water in your lily pond BUT the real truth is that lilies HATE moving water and Niagara Falls is not a good comparison for the water movement in your pond. Slow it down or lose the plants to the green goop.
Filamentous Algae Control
Scoop out with stick by twisting and twirling stick in water.
Usually too much organic matter in the water and its a common problem, what with all the plants dying and decomposing and fish mucking about and all. Luckily twirling with a stick gets most of it without hassle. Gives you a reason to muck about with the pond on a hot summer day. Filamentous algae is hard to totally eliminate once established. It is a maintenance thing – twirling the stick to pull it out is one of the easiest garden chores.
Moss Algae Control
How to identify: its the slippery stuff on sidewalls and rocks.
LEAVE IT ALONE. Its a good guy and algae control is NOT needed.
This kind of algae provides 50% of dissolved oxygen in water.
That is the fast and dirty manual on the three forms of algae and algae control in the pond. It is pretty basic pond care actually and algae control is not all that difficult with a little attention and patience. All water turns green initially in the spring or on first filling, but if you balance your pond ecology with enough oxygenators and surface coverage, it will all turn nice and clear within a week or so.
Need to ask a question about Algae Control
If you want to ask a question, please do so here. Please give as many details as possible - the more details we share, the more likely it is that you'll get a helpfuli answer for your climate and problem.
I do try to answer as many questions every week as possible but I can't make any guarantees I can answer every one.
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See What Other Visitors Haves Asked About Algae Control
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I have string algae this year Last year was the first year for our pond and had no trouble controling the string algae. I am wondering if it has anything to do with the 6 plants, 3 ...
amber pond water Our pond has been open for a couple of weeks now. Fish and plants survived the winter. Added barley pellets two days ago and now althought still clear,...
